Today is Monday November 1
I have been in the Middle East for a year and one month – 8 months in Iraq, 4 months in Djibouti and a week in Afghanistan plus a week here and there in Kuwait.
Today, I am flying from Bagram Air Force Base to Kuwait City by way of Kandahar, Afghanistan, and Dubai, United Arab Eremites (UAE). The flight from Bagram to Kandahar is short. The layover in Kandahar is planned to be about an hour on the plane. DFS airlines, a commercial airline (not military), is used by many contractors to fly in and out of Afghanistan. The plane was full on the flight into Bagram and this flight out was full.
I had to leave a day early because the next day’s flight was totally booked. Flying commercial is much better than flying military. There are no reservations for contractors on military flights – only stand by. It may take days to obtain a seat on the plane. On military planes in Iraq and Afghanistan, all the passengers must wear full body armor and Kevlar helmet.
On Bagram, I slept in the attic of a warehouse. Todd and Mike who work in the warehouse arrived early today – about 4am. Todd’s pickup truck’s license tag expired the day before. He needed to be off the streets before the Military Police saw him. The MPs start their day at about 5:00 am.
Without a sink or running water, I brushed my teeth, shaved, and washed my face from a bottle of water. Although I did not like it, I realize that most of the people in the world live day by day, every day without running water or electricity.
Since I planned to leave today, I packed up my stuff in three bags - a suitcase, a small backpack, and a larger backpack. I left the large backpack in the warehouse attic for my return trip. It contained some dirty clothes, bed sheets, and a towel that I will not need until I return. I cleaned up my living space as best as I could and left the warehouse to walk the mile or so to the office.
I learned that the laundry service does not use soap to wash the clothes. They boil them. No wonder the clothes shrink and come back without being totally clean. The best tip is to sprinkle soap powder in the laundry bag with the dirty clothes. Better yet, do the laundry yourself. In Iraq, I shared a washing machine and dryer with only 4 other people. The machines were right outside my door. It was very convenient. In Djibouti, the camp had a free laundry service, a free self service laundry, and for a fee a dry cleaning service. Generally, I washed my shirts and pants myself and gave let the laundry service do the rest.
I left the large suitcase and backpack in the warehouse expecting someone to take me back in a truck to pick it up and take me to the airport. However, all of the vehicles had expired license tags and no one from our group could drive anywhere on base. We had missed a deadline to renew the tags the day before. The Military Police do not issue tickets when they see a driving violation. Instead they confiscated the vehicle and suspend driving privileges for any violation like speeding, no seatbelt, or invalid license tag.
Anyway, this was a problem for me. How could I get my bags from the warehouse to the air terminal more than a mile away? My big bag has wheels but have you ever tried to pull a roller bag on a path of rocks or gravel?
INTERRUPT – I am sitting on the plane on the tarmac of the Kandahar airport and I am hungry. It is 2:00 pm and the airline does not serve any food; not even peanuts. We are waiting for the military fuel trucks. Of course, a plane load of civilians is not a priority to the military. I did get a meal from Kandahar to Dubai and again from Dubai to Kuwait.
So back to the suitcase saga……
I walked back to the warehouse, expecting to drag the 50 pound suitcase for a mile to the passenger terminal. Fortunately, I met Jay who was looking for Fred to sign a digging permit. Jay had a truck!! I did not know Jay and I did not know Fred but I knew Fred’s boss. I took Jay to Fred’s boss to sign his dig permit and in exchange Jay took me and my to the passenger terminal. The company Jay works for is building an expansion to the airport – additional run ways and more fueling stations. They needed to dig permit to dig a trench for a new fuel line. They needed to make sure they did not cut any communications lines when they were digging.
I write mostly about the living conditions and what I do when I am not at work. I work 10 – 12 hours per day 6 days per week. On the 7th day, my off day, I work half a day. I cannot talk about or write about most of what I do. Most of it is classified. I have to have a Secret Clearance classification to work where I work. I explained to Jay a little bit about what I do, nothing classified, but he did not want to hear in case it was “secret stuff. A Google search will provide a lot of information about TNOSC, RNOSC, JOC, and military communications. The information that is classified or confidential is about daily operations and activity plus operational plans.
The company I work for operates and maintains the communication network to ensure that military personnel have reliable voice and data communications that is always available. Instead of using companies like ATT, Verizon, Sprint, Southwestern Bell, Bell South, the military has it own networks and circuits for communications including land lines, radio, and satellite.
On Bagram, I work in a compound call the JOC – Joint Operations Command. The JOC compound includes an office building, a medical facility, a gym, laundry service, showers, and living units. I work in the office building monitor and reporting on the communications network. The room looks very much like the operations centers you would see on TV shows like the Unit or a Tom Clancy movie.
COMSEC is an acronym for Communications Security. A major responsibility of the team that operates and maintains the communications network is to defend the network against attack so the information stored on the network or passed on the network is confidential and available and is not changed by an attacker. The military networks, the systems and networks of corporations, and even the Internet connected system you use at home is under constant attack by intruders who would like to deny your service, steal your information, steal you identify, or give you false information.
Every day there are briefings to the commanders who lead the military groups that are responsible for the networks. A few days ago I heard about a small camp of about a dozen soldiers that came under attached by an enemy force nearly 4 times bigger. They had to retreat from their position leaving behind two vehicles with secure communication gear. The US soldiers communicated with a larger base nearby requesting help. Helicopters flew in dumping “some stuff” that killed the enemy while saving the vehicles and the COMSEC equipment. No US soldiers were injured or killed. Available and reliable communications were vital to saving these Americans lives.
Potential outages or degradation of services is the major problem faced on the job. Network availability, reliability, and confidentially are the primary goals.
On the personal side, the biggest problem living in the Middle East on a military base is celibacy. Many Yogis practice celibacy as part of their Brahmacharya ethics. Literally Brahmacharya means “Walk with God”. The most common interpretation is controlling one’s sexual energy on the pathway to being closer to God. Other interpretations say it means to “not be promiscuous” while others believe that sexual union is a spiritual event. I prefer the latter interpretation. Nevertheless, celibacy is not for me. That is probable enough on this topic.
All my love. I will be home soon.
Tuesday, November 2, 2010
5,000 Feet Above Sea Level at the end of the Himalaya Mountain Range
The Hindu Kush
The Hindu Kush is a mountain range of southwest Asia extending more than 805 km (500 mi) westward from northern Pakistan to northeast Afghanistan.
I arrived at Bagram Air force Base in Afghanistan about a week ago from the hot and steamy Djibouti, Africa. The temperature here is cool in the morning and in the evening as the sun goes down but warm up during the day.
Bagram Air Base is a militarized airport and housing complex that is located next to the ancient city of Bagram, 11 kilometers (6.8 mi) southeast of Charikar in Parwan province of Afghanistan. More details
at:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bagram_Airfield
http://europe.ctcd.edu/remote/afghanistan/bagram.php
http://www.bagram.afcent.af.mil/
Bagram is headquarters for the Army’s 25th Signal Battalion. The 25th Sig BN is responsible for operating and maintaining the US Military’s data and voice communications network. The Regional Network Operations & Security Center (RNOSC) is located here. I am currently assigned as the Manager for the RNOSC. I work for the company who has the IT contract for the 25th Sig BN.
Bagram is very overcrowded. New arrivals have to live in a large tent with about 100 bunk beds. Permanent lodging is in B-Huts which are not available for a couple of months after arrival as people leave the base.
Fortunately, I have a penthouse suite in an attic of a warehouse with, of course, no running water. The nearest sink and shower is about 1 mile away. I share the attic with some mice and a couple of birds. I have not seen the mice yet, they are quite. The birds wake me up in the morning. I rigged a broom handle by hanging it with electrical cable to the rafters so I can hang up my clothes. There is a port-a-potty right outside the back door.
When one is available, I will move up to a wooden B hut with about eight people per hut. These modular, wooden buildings are sectioned off into individual compartments for a bit of privacy. Each area is furnished with twin bed and some type of closets and shelving. The huts are located near a bathroom/shower building and there are "port-a-potties" located elsewhere throughout the camp. B-huts require constant maintenance and painting, and are only expected to last three or four years. It is imperative that occupants of this structure keep their living areas clean and free of open beverage or food containers as vermin can easily gain entrance.
On Sunday, I jogged around the perimeter of the base. It is about 8 miles. The morning was cool and crisp – perfect for jogging. It felt good that I could job about 2 miles, walk a mile, and then jog 2 miles again until I completed the 8 mile route. The base is surrounded by thick, reinforced, concrete T-Walls with spiral razor wire at the top to prevent anyone from coming in. T-Walls are twelve feet high, portable, and used for blast protection throughout Iraq and Afghanistan.
This week, I am traveling to Kuwait for some leadership training. I will live in a modern apartment on the beach. Since it is not so hot this time of year, walking/jogging on the beach will be fun. I have several friends in Kuwait.
The following week I travel back to Djibouti by way of Dubai. AFRICOM, an Army group from Germany, is taking over the operation and maintenance of the network from the Navy. My team is helping with the transition.
Then on November 21st I travel back to Atlanta and Austin to see family.
James
The Hindu Kush is a mountain range of southwest Asia extending more than 805 km (500 mi) westward from northern Pakistan to northeast Afghanistan.
I arrived at Bagram Air force Base in Afghanistan about a week ago from the hot and steamy Djibouti, Africa. The temperature here is cool in the morning and in the evening as the sun goes down but warm up during the day.
Bagram Air Base is a militarized airport and housing complex that is located next to the ancient city of Bagram, 11 kilometers (6.8 mi) southeast of Charikar in Parwan province of Afghanistan. More details
at:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bagram_Airfield
http://europe.ctcd.edu/remote/afghanistan/bagram.php
http://www.bagram.afcent.af.mil/
Bagram is headquarters for the Army’s 25th Signal Battalion. The 25th Sig BN is responsible for operating and maintaining the US Military’s data and voice communications network. The Regional Network Operations & Security Center (RNOSC) is located here. I am currently assigned as the Manager for the RNOSC. I work for the company who has the IT contract for the 25th Sig BN.
Bagram is very overcrowded. New arrivals have to live in a large tent with about 100 bunk beds. Permanent lodging is in B-Huts which are not available for a couple of months after arrival as people leave the base.
Fortunately, I have a penthouse suite in an attic of a warehouse with, of course, no running water. The nearest sink and shower is about 1 mile away. I share the attic with some mice and a couple of birds. I have not seen the mice yet, they are quite. The birds wake me up in the morning. I rigged a broom handle by hanging it with electrical cable to the rafters so I can hang up my clothes. There is a port-a-potty right outside the back door.
When one is available, I will move up to a wooden B hut with about eight people per hut. These modular, wooden buildings are sectioned off into individual compartments for a bit of privacy. Each area is furnished with twin bed and some type of closets and shelving. The huts are located near a bathroom/shower building and there are "port-a-potties" located elsewhere throughout the camp. B-huts require constant maintenance and painting, and are only expected to last three or four years. It is imperative that occupants of this structure keep their living areas clean and free of open beverage or food containers as vermin can easily gain entrance.
On Sunday, I jogged around the perimeter of the base. It is about 8 miles. The morning was cool and crisp – perfect for jogging. It felt good that I could job about 2 miles, walk a mile, and then jog 2 miles again until I completed the 8 mile route. The base is surrounded by thick, reinforced, concrete T-Walls with spiral razor wire at the top to prevent anyone from coming in. T-Walls are twelve feet high, portable, and used for blast protection throughout Iraq and Afghanistan.
This week, I am traveling to Kuwait for some leadership training. I will live in a modern apartment on the beach. Since it is not so hot this time of year, walking/jogging on the beach will be fun. I have several friends in Kuwait.
The following week I travel back to Djibouti by way of Dubai. AFRICOM, an Army group from Germany, is taking over the operation and maintenance of the network from the Navy. My team is helping with the transition.
Then on November 21st I travel back to Atlanta and Austin to see family.
James
Djibouti Horn of Africa July 12, 2010 Update
Dearest Family and Friends,
Last week George Steinbrenner and Harvey Pedar passed away. Everyone knows the base giant and New York Yankees owner, George Steinbrenner but do you know Harvey Pekar? Harvey Pekar, Cherri’s mother’s cousin, wrote a comic book about his life in Cleveland. The movie American Splendor starting Paul Giamatti (star in Sideways) as Harvey Pekar and Harvey Pekar playing himself was based on Harvey life and his comic book stories. More at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harvey_Pekar
It is still hot and humid on the Horn of Africa, but not as hot. There was a dust storm on Sunday that felt a little cooler in the wind. The dust storms here are not near a bad as Northwest Iraq. It feels like the winds of Kansas and Nebraska, just hotter. The temperature is mild at 34 degrees or 93.2 degrees Fahrenheit. A few weeks ago it was 114 degrees Fahrenheit.
Last week my team hosted a dinner at a local Ethiopian restaurant. There were about 30 of us and about 30 people from the intelligent group from the Camp. We do not have the freedom to just drive off base. We have to obtain approval from the military with signed authorization.
The restaurant owner and our hostess, was very gracious. It common practice shake hands with both hands and kiss each other on each check. The restaurant owner greeted me in this way when I was introduced by one of my team mates. The food was very good and the atmosphere was great. Civilians and military from the base eat there are a regular basis.
I was almost homeless tonight. All visitors and residence of a military camp must check in with the Billeting department to be assigned to a place to live. My company had a living unit and just gave me the key. I did not check in. Yesterday I was caught. New arrivals of lower rank have to share a tent with other until rooms become available. I am fortunate to have a private room and a bathroom. Most have to stay in “dry” container and walk outside to the shower and latrine (head) in the Navy.
Camp Lemonnier in the county of Djibouti is a Navy base while the bases in Iraq are run by the Army. The Navy is different from the Army. Having spent the last 8 months on an Army base in Iraq, I am learning the ways of the Navy in Africa.
There is a long waiting list for living units so they were mad that I did not go on the waiting list, I just moved in. Fortunately, my position allowed me to get an exception so I could stay in the same room. The room is shipping container stacked on top of each other with a single bed, air-conditioned, bathroom, no carpet and limited furniture.
On Camp Lemonnier, we have just one dining facility, a work out center, small movie theater, and an internet cafe. There are two Yoga classes each week but I have not been to one yet. I think I will go tomorrow.
I have been working 10 -12 hours per day; 7 days a week.
Great fun on the horn----
All my best and all my love…..
James
Last week George Steinbrenner and Harvey Pedar passed away. Everyone knows the base giant and New York Yankees owner, George Steinbrenner but do you know Harvey Pekar? Harvey Pekar, Cherri’s mother’s cousin, wrote a comic book about his life in Cleveland. The movie American Splendor starting Paul Giamatti (star in Sideways) as Harvey Pekar and Harvey Pekar playing himself was based on Harvey life and his comic book stories. More at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harvey_Pekar
It is still hot and humid on the Horn of Africa, but not as hot. There was a dust storm on Sunday that felt a little cooler in the wind. The dust storms here are not near a bad as Northwest Iraq. It feels like the winds of Kansas and Nebraska, just hotter. The temperature is mild at 34 degrees or 93.2 degrees Fahrenheit. A few weeks ago it was 114 degrees Fahrenheit.
Last week my team hosted a dinner at a local Ethiopian restaurant. There were about 30 of us and about 30 people from the intelligent group from the Camp. We do not have the freedom to just drive off base. We have to obtain approval from the military with signed authorization.
The restaurant owner and our hostess, was very gracious. It common practice shake hands with both hands and kiss each other on each check. The restaurant owner greeted me in this way when I was introduced by one of my team mates. The food was very good and the atmosphere was great. Civilians and military from the base eat there are a regular basis.
I was almost homeless tonight. All visitors and residence of a military camp must check in with the Billeting department to be assigned to a place to live. My company had a living unit and just gave me the key. I did not check in. Yesterday I was caught. New arrivals of lower rank have to share a tent with other until rooms become available. I am fortunate to have a private room and a bathroom. Most have to stay in “dry” container and walk outside to the shower and latrine (head) in the Navy.
Camp Lemonnier in the county of Djibouti is a Navy base while the bases in Iraq are run by the Army. The Navy is different from the Army. Having spent the last 8 months on an Army base in Iraq, I am learning the ways of the Navy in Africa.
There is a long waiting list for living units so they were mad that I did not go on the waiting list, I just moved in. Fortunately, my position allowed me to get an exception so I could stay in the same room. The room is shipping container stacked on top of each other with a single bed, air-conditioned, bathroom, no carpet and limited furniture.
On Camp Lemonnier, we have just one dining facility, a work out center, small movie theater, and an internet cafe. There are two Yoga classes each week but I have not been to one yet. I think I will go tomorrow.
I have been working 10 -12 hours per day; 7 days a week.
Great fun on the horn----
All my best and all my love…..
James
Djibouti Horn of Africa - August 26, 2010 Update
August 26, 2010
Dear Friends and Family
Thanks so much for your emails. I really enjoy hearing from my friends around the world - US, Iraq, Dubai, KL, Ethiopia.
The US Government (Military) has 3 separate networks -- one attached to the public internet and two very private networks for confidential and secret stuff. I cannot use my personal email on any computer at work.Every night I have to take the hard drive out of my computer and lock it in a safe so no one has access to it except me. Charles who I mentioned in my last email was flown to Germany for recovery. He is on his way back to US. He is recovering very nicely. He is out of the hospital and doing fine.
Last week we experienced a thunder storm and heavy winds up to 65 miles per hour—the very unusual storm of this time of year. The rainy season is not until wintertime. This week the skies are cloudy with periodic rain during the day. The clouds and rain keep the temperature about 80 degrees instead of the normal 115 – 120 degrees Fahrenheit.
Last night we had a "full muster recall" where everyone had to report to a central point and show they were on Camp and safe. This is like a fire drill. They called me about 7PM to report. The muster was over about 9PM.
Yoga is taught twice a week in the fitness center on Camp. The style is like hot yoga and the temperature is hot without the need for heaters. I think I will start teaching Yoga one night a week next month.
Last Sunday the team had a pizza party at the local Pizza restaurant in town. The menu is written in French. Djibouti used to be a French Colony so many French people still live here. The French army is still here. The Pizza restaurant plays western rock and roll music so it is just like being in the US. However, either the French or the Djiboutian like a raw egg on top of the Pizza so all the pizzas come with a raw egg on top unless you ask the waiters, “No Egg”. The waiters are Djiboutian who also speak some French but little English.
Recently a security expert visited Djibouti to make an assessment of the safety for westerns living in Djibouti City.
During the assessment, we drove through the downtown business area as well as several neighborhoods. In addition we walked some of the neighborhoods in order to assess the overall interaction of the citizens with foreigners.
There is possible risk of terrorist actions within Djibouti. However, the risk is not any greater than Kuwait or Qatar. Comments were made that Djibouti is as safe and in some ways safer than large US cities.
The country is rated as High Risk by the US Embassy with the primary areas of concern being that of petty crime, generally opportunistic in nature such as theft. Pick pocketing and burglaries are frequent. The Embassy did not have any reported incidents involving Western employees. Violent crime was described as being very minimal with a total of 15 homicides being reported in 2009 and 6 year to date for 2010. None of those reported involved Westerns. As a comparison, any US city with a population of 800,000 like Djibouti City would probably report 50 to 100 or more homicides per year.
The local police forces are competent in their ability to handle criminal incidents as well as their ability to readily identify potential threats relating to terrorism.
The general conditions surrounding Camp Lemonnier is an area rife with poverty and very low income living with an estimated 60% unemployment rate. The local populace which is primarily Muslim can be seen in abundance out and about, either walking or laying off the main streets sleeping etc. Area beaches were noted to be a common area for many to bathe in and have been consequently placed off limits by the military.
Many areas can best be described as littered with little to no street maintenance or clean-up of litter alongside roadways. With little employment, many citizens resort to begging.
Consumption of the plant “Khat" which provides users the effects of a euphoric stimulant such as Ecstasy is common and legal amongst the population. The plant is imported by the Government and sold openly and very cheap at street corner stands operated primarily by women. It is estimated that 60-70 percent of the local male population uses this drug which also serves as an appetite suppressant.
During a walkthrough of the neighborhoods and the downtown area there were a few instances of young children who would approach and beg for money. The adult citizens however are more reserved in their approach, seeming to choose to want to provide some act of service, whether it is to watch your vehicle or assist you in any way in hopes that you will give them money. I did not perceive at anytime that they were aggressive and felt safe walking about.
It is 11:45 PM at night so I think I will go to bed soon. But first I will respond to a few emails.
All the best and all my love from the Horn of Africa,
James
Dear Friends and Family
Thanks so much for your emails. I really enjoy hearing from my friends around the world - US, Iraq, Dubai, KL, Ethiopia.
The US Government (Military) has 3 separate networks -- one attached to the public internet and two very private networks for confidential and secret stuff. I cannot use my personal email on any computer at work.Every night I have to take the hard drive out of my computer and lock it in a safe so no one has access to it except me. Charles who I mentioned in my last email was flown to Germany for recovery. He is on his way back to US. He is recovering very nicely. He is out of the hospital and doing fine.
Last week we experienced a thunder storm and heavy winds up to 65 miles per hour—the very unusual storm of this time of year. The rainy season is not until wintertime. This week the skies are cloudy with periodic rain during the day. The clouds and rain keep the temperature about 80 degrees instead of the normal 115 – 120 degrees Fahrenheit.
Last night we had a "full muster recall" where everyone had to report to a central point and show they were on Camp and safe. This is like a fire drill. They called me about 7PM to report. The muster was over about 9PM.
Yoga is taught twice a week in the fitness center on Camp. The style is like hot yoga and the temperature is hot without the need for heaters. I think I will start teaching Yoga one night a week next month.
Last Sunday the team had a pizza party at the local Pizza restaurant in town. The menu is written in French. Djibouti used to be a French Colony so many French people still live here. The French army is still here. The Pizza restaurant plays western rock and roll music so it is just like being in the US. However, either the French or the Djiboutian like a raw egg on top of the Pizza so all the pizzas come with a raw egg on top unless you ask the waiters, “No Egg”. The waiters are Djiboutian who also speak some French but little English.
Recently a security expert visited Djibouti to make an assessment of the safety for westerns living in Djibouti City.
During the assessment, we drove through the downtown business area as well as several neighborhoods. In addition we walked some of the neighborhoods in order to assess the overall interaction of the citizens with foreigners.
There is possible risk of terrorist actions within Djibouti. However, the risk is not any greater than Kuwait or Qatar. Comments were made that Djibouti is as safe and in some ways safer than large US cities.
The country is rated as High Risk by the US Embassy with the primary areas of concern being that of petty crime, generally opportunistic in nature such as theft. Pick pocketing and burglaries are frequent. The Embassy did not have any reported incidents involving Western employees. Violent crime was described as being very minimal with a total of 15 homicides being reported in 2009 and 6 year to date for 2010. None of those reported involved Westerns. As a comparison, any US city with a population of 800,000 like Djibouti City would probably report 50 to 100 or more homicides per year.
The local police forces are competent in their ability to handle criminal incidents as well as their ability to readily identify potential threats relating to terrorism.
The general conditions surrounding Camp Lemonnier is an area rife with poverty and very low income living with an estimated 60% unemployment rate. The local populace which is primarily Muslim can be seen in abundance out and about, either walking or laying off the main streets sleeping etc. Area beaches were noted to be a common area for many to bathe in and have been consequently placed off limits by the military.
Many areas can best be described as littered with little to no street maintenance or clean-up of litter alongside roadways. With little employment, many citizens resort to begging.
Consumption of the plant “Khat" which provides users the effects of a euphoric stimulant such as Ecstasy is common and legal amongst the population. The plant is imported by the Government and sold openly and very cheap at street corner stands operated primarily by women. It is estimated that 60-70 percent of the local male population uses this drug which also serves as an appetite suppressant.
During a walkthrough of the neighborhoods and the downtown area there were a few instances of young children who would approach and beg for money. The adult citizens however are more reserved in their approach, seeming to choose to want to provide some act of service, whether it is to watch your vehicle or assist you in any way in hopes that you will give them money. I did not perceive at anytime that they were aggressive and felt safe walking about.
It is 11:45 PM at night so I think I will go to bed soon. But first I will respond to a few emails.
All the best and all my love from the Horn of Africa,
James
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